2024: Much like 2023 really... Except with a Next Gen Ranger

Well, it's 2024. Actually, we're nearly a 6th of the way through it. 

If you've been following along, you'll know I've been waiting on delivery of a new Ford Ranger. I got it a couple of weeks ago. And my radio plans changed quickly. 

Straight off the bat, I'd planned on putting in a QYT WP-KT12 to the Ranger. I don't really like the radio that much but I like the size. It does the job, but it's a little clunky given things like multiple button presses for the volume, so it makes more sense that it goes in the vehicle that I won't drive every day.

For whatever reason it dawned on me how I could make the Icom IC-208H from my Falcon fit instead, and I installed the QYT over in it instead. Well, it's mostly installed. I do need to plug the mic in. It's hooked up to the spare battery in the boot, so there's no ignition sensing. Eventually that'll get changed. 

I'd brought a switch cluster from Pirate Camp Co that goes under the dash to move the USB plug and has mounts I could use for RJ45 connectors that the radio would pass through. It dawned on me that I could fit the Icom's faceplate on that and I'd just need to 3D print a new bracket in ABS to do the job. So I did. 

I used the mount at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35578 It's actually for an ID-800H but the face plate looks identical and it fits. I reworked this slightly for my Falcon but reprinted it for the Ranger. Unlike the chap who created it originally in PLA, I want it to last more than 10 minutes in the sun, so I used ABS. It's not a dead perfect fit, but it's close enough that with a little massaging, it gets in and holds. A decent double sided tape behind it and it won't move from where it's positioned. 

I also installed Pirate Camp Co's mic holder - a bracket that uses existing bolts behind the brake controller panel. It just needs whatever hook you have to be installed to hold the mic. 

Finished product. The cable from the faceplate is a little messy but it's kinda delicate so I'm not touching it again. I don't have a proper relocation kit, so the cable is soldered to the back of it.

Close up of the mic mount.

In the process of adding the RJ45 sockets.

The radio itself is mounted under the front passenger seat. It's effectively valcroed down. There is a ignition controlled power feed in the passenger side wall that I've tapped into for power. The built in speaker appears to be more than adequate, so I don't need to fit an external speaker again.
Originally I was going to install the guts of the QYT on a Pirate Camp Co UHF mounting plate that fits behind the glove box. Unfortunately the Icom is far too big for that to work. I put the mount plate on eBay, still packaged and sold it for most of what I paid for it. 

The antenna is mounted on the bonnet. Not really where the manual suggests it should be for VHF, but the recommended locations really aren't going to work for me. On the roof will make it far too high, and at the rear is a problem with the canopy. I don't TX much and I don't use a lot of power, so perhaps we'll be OK. Passing the cable through the allocated grommet was a challenge. The manual discusses where to cut to pass through. It neglects though to mention that the far side of that grommet is also sealed.. and flexible enough to make it difficult to get through. Neither side of the grommet is that easily accessible. Someone with big arms/hands would have a lot more trouble than I did.

Overall, I'm happy with this setup. I can control the radio from my seat. I'm a little less happy about the cable from the faceplate to the socket but I don't have enough room to route it straight behind the plate. Still, it's functional. I just need a better hook for the mic.

 In other Ranger news....

I've done a few other things:

- My model is an XLS - a model that still come with halogen head, fog, reverse, indicator and driving lights. I've replaced most of them so far with Superior Vision LEDs. The headlights were a trick to replace - Ford's online chat were happy to point me where in the online manual the instructions for lamp changes were. It's necessary to remove a couple of screws - and release a few more to slight the whole assembly forward. Once I had that knowledge, it wasn't too hard. 

I'm yet to do the fog lights as I haven't quite mastered releasing the lamps with one hand (there isn't much room to get to them and the manual isn't that helpful with these ones). The kit I brought lacked indicators, but came with tail lights and some interior globes that aren't actually required for this model, so I've been able to arrange a swap with the supplier. Just awaiting arrival for those. They are at least a straight forward swap that only requires removal of the rear lights. 

- I installed a tub locker. This should have been a straight forward install that requires removing the tie down point closest to the tail gate. Unfortunately one of the T40 headed M8s has so much thread lock on it that I managed to strip the head trying to remove it. The other wasn't that much better, but I was able to get there slowly. I couldn't quite get it mounted as flush as I'd have liked, but I worked around it. The locker isn't quite as big as I'd have liked, but it's at least a functional space I can throw stuff like ratchet straps into and keep them together. 

- I added a steering wheel wrap. The factory rubber feeling steering wheel really isn't doing it for me. The PU leather wrap I've added is similar to the steering wheel in my Falcon - something that I really like the feel of. It's a little detail, but it makes a difference. 

 Future: Tinting needs to happen sooner or later. I also need to get a decent power feed into the tub so I can charge my lithium battery - though this might be some time away yet.